UPDATED for 2023:
WHY did Alillian Tattoo make the switch from the manual method of microblading to the machine method of Nano hairstroke brows? Keep reading to learn a bit about why we love it and believe it to be a superior modality of cosmetic tattooing compared to microblading.
Hyper realistic nano brows
Firstly, what is nano not? Nano is not a form of microblading, which we will go into detail further. It is also not to be confused with “nanoblading”. Nano blading is actually microblading, the blade just comprised of smaller diameter “nano” needles. “Nanoblading” and microblading are actually the same method. Despite their best intentions, If you see an artist referring to machine method hairstroke brows as “nanoblading”, they are not only using incorrect terminology but creating confusion around the method itself, which has nothing at all to do with a blade. Nano is also not a form of traditional tattooing and is not a “regular tattoo”. Nano brows are a specialized form of micropigmentation done by machine. Also be aware that some microblading artists are now referring to their microblading work as nano brows. This is very confusing for clients and potential clients do research. Make sure to always verify that the work will be done with a machine and not a blade!
So, WHAT is nano?
Nano is a method of cosmetic tattooing that uses a tattoo machine, and a fine (where the term nano comes into play) single needle, or grouping of needles, to “draw” each and every hairstroke by means of connective dots that form each hairstroke. Conversely, microblading is done with a handtool made up of micro pins that cut the skin. With microblading, pigment is implanted into the little cuts to create each hairlike stroke. Although a shallow cut, assuming the technician is performing the procedure correctly, (and that’s an entirely different topic for another day) it is still a cut. Cuts vs. micro dots that form a line, one of the most important differences between the techniques. Both Nano and microblading implant pigment into the papillary dermis of the skin, a layer of the upper dermal region of the skin that is more shallow than a where pigment for a traditional tattoo is implanted.
Nano is akin to traditional tattooing in a way, but is done with smaller needle configurations. Another difference is the more superficial layer of skin that pigment is implanted into. Cosmetic tattooing is done at the dermal epidermal junction, the uppermost layer the dermis, whereas traditional tattooing is done by working in deeper dermal tissue. Those deeper layers of skin is where ink is implanted for those old school style brow tattoos that are blue, gray or even purple that we’ve all seen. This is due to the layer of skin at which the color was implanted, and the deeper you go the more off the color becomes (although poor pigment/ink choice - among other things - can also contribute to this). On the contrary, the more shallow layer of skin that is worked in when performing the nano or powder brow technique allows for beautiful and predictable healed pigment color. This also allows for thin crisp hairstrokes and the pigment to fade over time.
But WHY nano?
Creative freedom
for one. Nano does not carry the same artistic and technical limitation that microblading does. For example, with microblading the strokes absolutely cannot cross nor can they touch much at all. If they do they will “blow out” and create a blotchy dark spot at the point at which the strokes cross. With nano, however, there is no such restriction. This means more realistic results and mores realism in one session vs. two. (It is important to note that Nano is still a two part process, just like microblading.) The Nano technique can do everything microblading can do and a whole lot more. The overal goal of nano is not to replicate each and every single hair but to create the overall look of a hyper realistic brow. This is done by replicating light and shadow, manipulating hairstroke saturation levels and by understanding and respecting facial, brow, and skeletal anatomy.
Drawing eURopean nano styles in 2018
Inclusivity.
Nano in itself is a more inclusive style of cosmetic tattooing. For example, Nano can give people with oilier skin types hairstroke style brows, something you typically cannot do with microblading (at least not consistently or predictably). Nano means I can give a broader range of people hairstroke style brows and natural never goes out of style.
With microblading, about 20%, or less, of the clients I see are actual candidates for the service. Yes. Only 20%. And an ideal healed result on this small demographic is still only possible IF aftercare is followed to a T and their genetic disposition agrees. As mentioned above, oily and combo skin can now get hairstroke style brows with better success, along with more mature/thin skin, darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick 5 & 6), and other skin types/tones that do not heal as well with microblading due to their skin type or individual chemistry. This is very important to me, and I think it should be important to all cosmetic tattooists.
Skin integrity.
Most importantly, Nano is less traumatic for the skin. Less trauma = less damage which equates to better healed results and preservation of the integrity of YOUR skin. Which is number one. Microblading carries the risk of creating scar tissue over a period of time after multiple touchups, even when performed correctly. Scar tissue can even occur after a single microblading session. This is not to say this cannot happen with machine methods, only that the risk is greater with the manual method of microblading. Aside from being healthier for the skin, of all the hairstroke methodologies, nano maintains its beauty most readily over longer periods of time.
The longterm.
Now that I have been doing nano exclusively for over three years, I have had a chance to see long termed healed nano work compared to long term microblading work. There is no comparison. The structure and technique itself allows for machine hairstrokes (nano) to heal softer and more beautiful over time wheras microblading, even on the most ideal of skin types, tends to blur, merge and become unrecognizable to what it once was.
The power of correction.
Something amazing about nano is that in the right scenario it can actually correct old cosmetic tattooing. This means that many people can get brand new refreshed brows without undergoing the oftentimes long and arduous tattoo removal process. About half of our new client volume is now corrective work and it is something we specialize in and have become known for. *Microblading should never be performed over old work or over skin that has undergone removal services like laser or saline removal.
Supernatural nano brows
Put plainly, nano is a better service for more people, and it is important to me that I offer only the the best services to my clients, even if it is more work and takes extra skill and ability, as Nano is significantly more difficult to learn, let alone master. If I can do something that is better for the skin then I believe I should. This is by no means a knock on microblading, microblading is how I got started in the industry, and can garner beautiful results if done well and on the correct skin. BUT, I’ve grown as an artist and that means change! And this is a good change. Nano is IT for me.
Added bonus, Nano is less painful, involves zero bleeding and is all around a better time for all!
As I had predicted in early 2020, nano indeed has proven to be the future of brow tattooing. It is now the most coveted and sought after technique in cosmetic tattooing and has grown exponentially industry wide. I am so happy artists and clients alike are educating themselves on these services and are desiring to make the switch from microblading to nano. We have opened an academy teaching other artists, and those eager to enter this rapidly growing industry, everything we know about nano brows and freckle tattooing. Click here to learn more.
As we grow and learn I believe it is important to evolve our methods. This evolution and growth is what has led me here.
Machine hairstroke techniques, the future of cosmetic tattooing.